Відео

I'm finally in a place where I can get back to making videos. I'll have some new content soon.

@@wickedartstudio COOL! Miss yer lessons…

I'm sorry. I have no control over the search algorithm. I'll add your request to my list of videos I need to produce though.

I doubt any art schools teach this method for laying out a design, but it is very effective.

I appreciate the kind words! Thank you!

I have no experience with that particular model. You get what you pay for most of the time, especially when the subject is a precision tool. I stand by my recommendation to spend a little more and purchase a known brand.

I agree.

I appreciate the compliment and I'm sorry if my teaching style doesn't hold your attention. My goal is simply to teach others. I am not an entertainer. Standing in front of a camera and talking to it is a bit of a challenge for some. I think I've gotten better with time, and I hope to continue to improve.

I don't recommend a heat gun. You'll have a hard time distributing the heat evenly at the correct temperature. I believe the pressure from a heat press also makes a big difference.

@@wickedartstudioThank you very much

Using a grid is a great technique. Projecting saves time comparatively in my opinion though.

Time is money.

Thank you!

I agree with the fact that backflushing allows cleaner (as well as paint, more on that below) to reach the needle seal. That's partially why I choose to use the technique. Here's the deal, the needle seal is located behind where the airbrush takes in paint (behind the gravity or side feed cup with a gravity fed airbrush, or behind the siphon feed port on a siphon fed airbrush). The needle seal is only there to prevent paint from traveling into the air control valve and/or handle of the airbrush (and yes, that's a pain to clean up when it does happen). Paint can and will reach the needle seal during normal operation because you're dragging the needle back and forth as you work the trigger. That back-and-forth motion allows paint to coat the needle behind the gravity feed cup or siphon feed port. Logically, some of that paint is going to make it to the needle seal. If one fails to clean the airbrush adequately, that paint will dry on the needle seal and needle, basically glueing the needle to the needle seal (ever put your airbrush away for the night and come back the following day with a needle that doesn't move when you pull the trigger back?). For what it's worth, most quality airbrush brands and models in this day and age use a Teflon needle seal. A Teflon needle is far better in terms of longevity compared to the O-rings used long ago. The other advantage to a Teflon needle seal is they are adjustable. When one begins to wear, you can simply tighten it very slightly and it will seal again for a very long time. I have airbrushes that I've used for twenty years, and I have never had to replace a Teflon needle seal. Based on my own experience, spraying cleaner through the airbrush several times, cleaning out the gravity feed cup (or siphon feed passage), and removing the needle in order to wipe it down a few times isn't enough to remove paint that makes it to the needle seal. Most of the time you will still wind up with a needle that is stuck to the needle seal if the residual paint left behind has time to dry. Backflushing the airbrush a few times during the cleaning process gives the artist a better chance of removing the paint on the needle seal without completely disassembling the airbrush. So, backflushing saves time, especially if you use your airbrush frequently. I hope all of that makes sense. As always, what I teach isn't "the way", it's an option. It's up to each individual artist to find what works best for them.

I'm sure that method works to an extent. In terms of durability and longevity, I still think a heat press is more reliable and consistent when doing work for a paying customer.

I would still recommend a catalyzed urethane clear for the ultimate in durability, longevity, and polishing. Check into Spray Max 2k aerosols. They offer a gloss and a flat clear. 1 can would probably do a few models, but it does have a working window once you mix in the catalyst. So, I would have a few ready to spray first.

To each their own, but I disagree.

You're very welcome!

Correct, but can you name the other one?

Thank you!

I think you missed the point I was trying to make. I agree, the Eclipse series is capable of very fine lines with the proper reduction and air pressure. I would also agree the paint I had mixed for this video wasn't as reduced as it should have been in order to create very fine continuous lines; however, fine lines are still achievable, even for someone with little experience.

@@wickedartstudio i guess i missed it. sorry

That requires a repair, or a pinstripe to cover up the mistake.

Thank you!

Thank you for sharing!

A DLP projector would work too. Find what works best for you!

I appreciate the kind words!

Thank you!

Obrigado! Eu uso tinta Createx e esta foi pintada em um capô de plástico automotivo.

There should be an O-ring between the head cap and the airbrush body. If that is missing, it's likely the source of your air leak. If not, I highly recommend a dab of beeswax. It works!

I think you missed my point. I'm not saying a detail-oriented airbrush is never needed or beneficial. I own many. This information was oriented toward the new airbrush artist. Those who have less experience can fall into the marketing trap of purchasing a higher end, more expensive airbrush in order to get finer lines and/or better detail. That's not the case. Until one spends the time to develop good fundamental control skills, one will have difficulty trying to achieve fine detail regardless of which airbrush they are using. With practice and experience, very fine detail can be achieved with even a mediocre airbrush.

@@wickedartstudio True to an extent but an eclipse hp-cs will never produce the level of detail that a custom micron will. It wont produce the level of detail my sotar will and definitely cant touch my thayer and chandler model A. Brushes with smaller needle groups are literally made to run at lower psi ranges with reduced paint or they wont run right at all. But the truth is no beginner should even be thinking of the word detail. They wont achieve it with a cheap or expensive brush but they surely should know the reasons for lower psi and reduced paint at the beginning of their journey before they even decide to venture in that direction and shouldn't hold the false belief that higher pressure will give them the same detail when it wont. Its kind of miss leading because its only the case for experienced artists. We can agree to disagree on this one i guess.

I agree with most of your comment, but my paint was not unreduced in this video. Granted, it should've been reduced more, but that wasn't the point I was trying to make. Running reduced paint at 30 psi can absolutely spider all over the place depending on the surface one is painting on. There are no absolutes.

@@wickedartstudio reduced paint is always ran at lower psi not higher. Of course 30 psi would spider. Reduced paint requires reduced air pressure. When I paint with any reduced paint and especially if I'm using a .2 needle my air pressure never goes over 20. I usually am around 10 psi when working really reduced. Anything with a fine needle needs to be reduced to even work right.

@@azarelthecreator7098 Again, there are no absolutes. 30 psi on fabric is very different from 30 psi on a smooth hard surface or 30 psi on an absorbent sheet of paper. Let's just agree to disagree.

@@wickedartstudio the point is to use a different psi for different applications. I don't know why you are stuck with this 30 psi talk.

@@azarelthecreator7098 I agree. I never said I use 30 psi exclusively. I apologize if I misunderstood your point.

Thank you!

Awesome! I hope the dream comes true sooner rather than later!

Thank you, my friend!

I couldn't agree more!

Thank you!

Thank you, my friend!

Polishing the needle would very likely improve performance to some degree; however, I'm not sure one could polish out all of the defects on a cheap needle. On the flip side, polishing the needle can also alter the needle taper, and that would degrade performance.

@@wickedartstudio I guess limiting the polishing to the polishing chemical and cloth is wise

@@mikebalis9963 I agree, but again, I'm almost certain a polishing compound alone would not remove enough of the defects seen in the cheaper needle to make a difference (your time is still worth something even from a hobbyist perspective). The difference between the two needles is pretty stark even with my less than expensive camera equipment.

@@wickedartstudio thank you

I'm glad you found the content helpful!

Thank you!

lol! Either way, you'll see a noticeable difference in the longevity and durability of your airbrushed t-shirts.

I do not. I'm sorry. I've had that wooden easel for probably close to thirty years and unfortunately, they don't build things like they did back then anymore.

They are getting harder and harder to find. Try searching for "ink" refills. Here's a link where I found some recently www.dickblick.com/items/derwent-usb-rechargeable-eraser-refills-pkg-of-30/?clicktracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=21081-1002&country=us&currency=usd&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzva1BhD3ARIsADQuPnWgBFSYvynPvi-vvktyKh6Qh4gVlFH9zU2styFzhx2m3c6NyGe9W-QaAiFmEALw_wcB

Yes, the struggle is real, my friend! 🙃

Thank you!

I would recommend small stencils, like this amzn.to/3YMvM8F for that application